Yes, ladies, I am gonna spill this tea! Either you can relate to this as personal experience, or you have seen a few questionable weaves and wondered this for yourself! As an industry professional who specializes in flat weaves, I may be a little more sensitive to “bulky weaves” than most. A weave that doesn’t fit the head for me is as bad as wearing shoes that are too big. No matter how great everything else looks, they will ruin the entire outfit.
And while today trends seem to be the bigger the bundles, the more glamorous, it still needs to fit and contour the head. I come from an era where we wanted weaves and tracks so flat that we’d split them right in half to ensure that lay as smooth as possible. But now with the “more hair craze,” there seem to be heads walking around almost double the size! Not acceptable.
I could go on and on about the percentage of women I see with weaves that are literally bigger than the heads that they are on but instead I will focus on why they don’t lay flat. And some of the reasons may surprise you.
below you will find the link to my top 3 reasons that weaves don’t lay flat
Let’s start with the foundation:
A subject that kicks up quite a bit of controversy. I have shared many debates with other stylists about what is the best way to braid a weave foundation. Some like to braid in a beehive, some like to make intricate designs around the sides and back of the head, and I have even seen stylists make small cornrows like a designer hairstyle to make the weave lay flat. While all these foundations may be useful for something, they are useless to achieve a seamlessly blended weave.
To create a flat blended weave, the foundation or cornrows should go with the contour of the head. The head shape is round and back; the cornrows should be aswell. Our heads don’t go in a continuous circular motion, nor does it swirl on each side. Neither should your cornrows. The braids should always mimic the shape of the head as much as possible.
The wefts of hair:
This is where it gets a little tricky. When it comes to stitching and sewing, the technique is everything! I can not stress this simple point enough. It is not only about technique; it is also posture, yours and the clients. This is really an entire segment on its own but in a brief description when clients sit in my chair to get that seamless blend is they are alomost sitting like maniquins. It is not very comfortable but they keep coming back for more, because they love the results!
The more precise you become from the braid foundation and the way you hold the wefts to sew, to the way you stand and position your client’s head, you will become more accurate in creating flat weave styles. The upright posture helps to contour the shape of the head with the tracks.
No matter how many bundles you opt to put in the wefts should be laying close and uniformed to the head.
BELOW IS A PICTURE THAT SHOWS CORNROWS LAYING FLAT IN THE DIRECTION OF THE HEAD TO CREATE A FLAT CONTOURED STYLE:
BELOW IS AN EXAMPLE OF FOUNDATIONS THAT WILL NOT CREATE A FLAT WEAVE STYLE:
LET’S MAKE WEAVES FLAT AGAIN!!!